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The Itinerary Investigator

The Itinerary InvestigatorThe Itinerary InvestigatorThe Itinerary Investigator
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SCOTLAND

 “This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link. Please see our full disclosure for further information. If not otherwise stated, all prices are intended in US$.” 

Navigating scotland

entry requirements

  • Passport

money Basics

  • Currency: British Pound (1 USD to about .8 GBP)
  • Tipping: Tipping is not expected but is appreciated. Most situations, such as taxi rides, to-go food, bars, etc, do not require tipping. Restaurants will sometimes add a 10% service charge to the bill and if not, then you can add a 10% tip. 10% is also a good rule of thumb for tour guides. 

navigating from the airport in edinburgh

  • Taxi: 20-30 minutes to get to the city center for about  £45.
  • Uber: 20-30 minutes and rates vary. You can also use Uber to get around once you reach downtown, as the rates are very reasonable.
  • Airlink Express: Departs the airport every 10 minutes between 4:30am and 1am, and every 20 minutes between 1am -4:30am. Takes 30 minutes to reach St. Andrew's Square in the city center (New Town Side) for £5.50 one way and £8.00 round trip. You can find more information and tickets here.   
  • Tram: One tram line runs through the city from the airport out to Newhaven (port district), so you can use this to get near any area of the city. It takes 30 minutes to get from the airport to Princes Street Station (closest station to Old Town) for £7.50 one way and £9.50 for an open return. Purchase your tickets at the kiosk at the tram platform.   

* Please note that both the Airlink & Tram take you to New Town, so if you are staying in Old Town and have luggage, you will need to get a taxi to your hotel once you reach the city center. 

What to pack

  • Credit Cards (preferably with no foreign transaction fee)
  • Debit Card 
  • International Travel Adapter
  • Layers: The weather can change quickly and is often chilly despite there being sunshine. The biggest problem is the wind, so make sure to bring extra layers, such as hats, scarves, gloves, and jackets with a hood, to stay comfortable. 
  • Reusable Water Bottle: The water in Scotland is safe to drink, so save money by bringing your own water bottle or bring one with a built in filter.
  • No-Jet-Lag: This supplement can help take the edge off of jet lag. It doesn't take it away completely, but does help reduce the time it takes to get back to a normal schedule. 

tips & tricks

  • Travel Insurance: We highly recommend getting travel insurance for any trip as it is relatively inexpensive and can be very beneficial. Having used it more than once and experienced a trip where we wish we had it, we never leave the country without taking out a policy. We like to use travelinsurance.com, where you can find great rates through many trusted companies. You can compare policies here.
  • Rent a car: Yes, the thought of driving on the wrong side of the road and the wrong side of the car may seem daunting, but there is very little traffic and it is the best way to see more of the Highlands than if you used public transportation. We recommend spending a few days in Edinburgh without a car and then renting one as you head North. The countryside is beautiful and there are so many castles and ruins to see anywhere you go. This itinerary is built off of having a rental car, so it would be needed if you plan on following the route below.
  • Whisky: While we in America refer to it as scotch, in Scotland it is just plain old whisky (without an "e"). Even if you are not typically a scotch drinker in the states, don't be afraid to branch out and try some from different regions, you may find that not all of them are super smokey and leave with a new found appreciation.
  • Multi-course Menu's: Many restaurants throughout Scotland offer 2-3 course menus for lunch and dinner. These are great value for the money, as the portions are usually large.   
  • Female Travelers: Everywhere we went in Scotland was extremely safe for female travelers. As long as you follow the normal rules of being aware of your surroundings and keeping an eye on your things you should be fine day or night. 

where to stay

  • Edinburgh: While many people head to Edinburgh to see Old Town, the best place to stay is over in New Town (which is still older than the USA), as it is closer to public transportation to/from the airport, has more affordable room rates, and is still within walking distance to Old Town, but you can avoid the high number of tourists. Le Monde Hotel is a good option over in New Town for under £200 per night. Or if you are looking for luxury and budget is no option, check out the Balmoral Hotel, where many celebrities choose to stay on their visits to Edinburgh. 
  • Oban: Oban is a very small town, so any hotel in the city center will work well. We loved our stay at Corran House Guest House. It was a quaint little guesthouse with clean, spacious rooms, an attached pub, and overlooking the ocean. For about £60 per night, it was a steal!
  • Inverness: While Inverness is the capital of the Highlands, the city center is still very walkable. If you stay along the river near Young/Bridge St. or near Church St. you will be near all the major sites, restaurants and bars. The Strathness House offers clean rooms in a historical guest house right along the river. 
  • Aberdeen: If you are going to stay in Aberdeen, then you will want to stay near Union Street. The Residence Inn Aberdeen is wonderful, with the most amazing staff working there. However, the city itself lacks much of the Scottish charm that you will find in other parts of the country. It is best to be used as a landing place to see the castles, landscape, and distilleries in the surrounding area.  If you wish to be more immersed in the Scottish Highlands, we would suggest staying about an hour outside of Aberdeen, near Dufftown. Here you will have quaint villages, beautiful countryside, and a distillery within a stone's throw of any direction you look. The Dowan's Hotel is an excellent option for that area.   

must try foods

  • Full Scottish Breakfast
  • Fish & Chips
  • Mussels
  • Cullen Skink: Smoked haddock chowder
  • Haggis: This is your "dare you to eat it" item for Scotland. A savory pudding of sheep's liver, kidney, and lungs, mixed with oatmeal, onions and spices and then wrapped in a casing. It is often served over mashed potatoes and turnips (aka haggis w/ neeps & tatties) but you can find it in many different dishes. We tried haggis eggrolls and they were actually pretty good.  

Recommended Restaurants/bars:

  • Edinburgh: 

  1. Mussels & Steak Bar
  2. White Horse: Upscale seafood restaurant
  3. McGonagal's: Scottish food and whisky flights
  4. The Ivy on the Green: Great for brunch or afternoon tea
  5. The Dome: Upscale bar
  6. The Alchemist: Fun "scientific" cocktails  

  • Oban: 

  1. Porcini at No. 17: Italian Food and great cocktails
  2. Ee-Usk: Seafood
  3. The Oban Inn
  4. Kronk's Deli: Grab & Go breakfast/lunch 
  5. Markie Dan's: Pub 

  • Inverness:

  1. River House Restaurant: Seafood & Oysters
  2. The Walrus & Corkscrew: Wine bar w/ charcuterie boards
  3. Coffee Affair: Coffee house with breakfast & lunch options
  4. Uile-bheist Brewery & Distillery: Local craft brews and whisky flights from all regions.
  5. Hootananny: Great bar for live music

  • Aberdeen:

  1. Miller & Carter Steakhouse: Fine Dining
  2. Amarone: Italian

SUGGESTED Itinerary FOR Scotland

  • Nights 1-4: Edinburgh
  • Night 5: Oban
  • Nights 6-7: Inverness
  • Nights 8-9: Aberdeen or Speyside

Edinburgh

Exploring Edinburgh: Welcome to the capital of Scotland, a city rich in history and some of the most beautiful architecture in the world. Exploring old town will feel like you have stepped back in time, and even their New Town, which is older than the United States, has plenty of culture to offer. With there being so much to learn about this city, Edinburgh is big on free walking tours and paid tour experiences. You can find a general daytime history tour, a night time ghost tour (focusing on the brutal history surrounding the city), or even a Harry Potter walking tour, as J.K. Rowling got plenty of inspiration from the city and spent time writing her novels here. Even if tours are not your thing, these tours are only about 2 hours long, very entertaining, cover a majority of the must see sites, and you will leave with so much more knowledge about the city, so we highly recommend doing at least one. You can find out more information about each tour here. While some of these tours are free, they are tip based so be sure to leave a tip per person if you enjoyed the experience.


The Royal Mile/Castle/Palace: In the heart of Old Town, you will find the Royal Mile. This street, which is actually just slightly over 1 mile, connects the Castle at the top to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. All along the way you will find shops selling authentic Scottish cashmere, wool, and souvenirs, plus pubs and restaurants. When you find yourself at either end, head on in to the castle or palace for a look around. It is best to book these tickets online so you know what time slot to arrive at. Both are about £20 per person and you can find more information as well as book tickets here for the Castle and here for the Palace.  


Mary King's Close: If you still want more history, you can take a tour of Mary King's Close, a series of underground tunnels that were once plagued by the black death back in the 17th century. The tunnels are now available to explore via a guided tour, where you will hear all about the history of the Close and the hauntings that surround it. The tour is led by a guide, who is in character of one of the residents from the time the Close was inhabited. Be sure to book ahead as this popular tour can fill up.


Arthur's Seat: If outdoor adventures are your thing, you might want to consider taking a hike up to Arthur's Seat. The hike is the tallest point around the city and offers stunning 360 degree views from the top. There are a few different routes you can take, with the majority starting on Queen's Drive, a few blocks from the Palace. The paths are about 1.5 miles long and are doable for those of average fitness levels. Make sure to check the weather prior to hiking though, as the wind and rain can make the hike slippery and dangerous at the top.


The Harbour/Leith: If you find yourself with some extra time after exploring the city center, you can take the tram out to the harbour where you will find the Royal Yacht Britannia and Port of Leith Distillery. Purchase a DAYticket (City Zone) pass for £5 to allow for unlimited rides on the tram. Then head on out to Ocean Terminal (on the Newhaven line). Then on your way back into the city, stop in Leith for lunch along the river. Get off at The Shore stop and head on over to The King's Wark for some of the best fish and chips.      

Must see sites

  • Edinburgh Castle
  • The Royal Mile
  • Palace of Holyroodhouse
  • St. Giles' Cathedral
  • Old & New Town
  • Scott Monument
  • Greyfriars Kirkyard
  • Westbow/Victoria St.
  • Grassmarket 
  • Mary King's Close
  • Arthur's Seat (Hike)
  • The Harbour

oban

Oban is an adorable seaside village in the west of Scotland, about 3 hours outside of Edinburgh. While it is a small town, and you can explore what it has to offer within an overnight stay, it is well worth the visit for the surrounding countryside and a tour of the Oban Distillery. 


Arriving in Oban: Get an earlier start leaving Edinburgh so you will reach Oban by mid-afternoon. You can get there by bus or by car. If you rent a car, make sure to stop in Stirling along the way to check out the castle, church, and historical town. Hermann's is a great spot to stop for lunch after exploring the castle. If you wish to do a distillery tour or tasting once your reach Oban, book ahead of time, as the last time slot for the day is 3:30pm and they can fill up quickly. You can make your reservation here.  


Exploring Oban: Once in Oban, you will quickly discover that your visit is much more about slowing down and enjoying the culture rather than rushing around to see and do everything as quickly as possible. Make a reservation for a Distillery tour, stroll along the harbor, stop in a restaurant for some local food, find a pub hosting a trivia and enjoy a pint, enjoy the simple pleasures that the town has to offer. 


Surrounding Castles: If you are up for driving around to see castles, there are plenty within an hour of the city. The best ones to check out are Stalker Castle to the North, Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe to the East, and Gylen Castle (you will need to take a ferry) to the South West.  

Must see sites

  • Oban City Center
  • Oban Distillery

inverness

Inverness, known as the Capital of the Highlands, is a medium sized city along River Ness. While there is not a ton to see/do within the city center, the typical Scottish charm makes the city a joy to visit, and it is the perfect location to stay if you wish to visit the surrounding distilleries, historical sites, or try and catch a glimpse of the Loch Ness Monster! We would suggest staying 2 nights, allowing for time to explore the town and day excursions.


Exploring Inverness: You can easily stroll through the city center and enjoy all the major sites within a few hours. Make your way to the Eastside of the river and find Church St. This is where a majority of the bars and restaurants are, along with Old High Churchyard, and Leakey's Bookshop (the largest second hand bookstore in Scotland). To explore the major sites in Inverness, you will head to Inverness Cathedral on the West side of the river, or up to the Castle that is perched on the hill overlooking the river. The original castle dates back centuries, but it is currently under construction to be renovated into more of a tourist attraction and therefore closed to the public until at least 2025.


Day Trips: There are 2 sites worth visiting while you are staying in Inverness; The first is Culloden Battlefield, where you will be immersed in the history of the final battle during the Jacobite uprising. The site is located about 15 minutes outside of Inverness and costs  £12 to enter or £16 if you want a guided tour. The second, is the famous Loch Ness, where you may catch a glimpse of the legend itself! You can also visit the Urquhart Castle on the lake, and that is a 30 minute drive outside of Inverness. 


Distilleries: Whether you are traveling through Scotland for the scenery, culture, or you actually came for whisky tours, you will come across your fair share of distilleries. Inverness is a perfect home base if you plan on visiting a few distilleries, as there are plenty within one hour of the city. You can do a quick map search to see which ones are nearby and a route you wish to take (be sure to use a designated driver if you are doing the tastings) but some of the ones worth checking out nearby would be Glenmorangie, Dalmore, and Dalwhinnie. There is also a local brewery & distillery, Uile-bheist, that recently opened in Inverness itself. They are too young to have their own whisky available just yet, but they do curate flights of whisky from all over Scotland. It is a great way to discover small distilleries and compare styles from the different regions, all within walking distance of your hotel.      

Must see sites

  • Inverness Castle Experience
  • Inverness Cathedral
  • Church Street
  • Old High Churchyard
  • Leakey's Bookshop
  • Loch Ness/Urquhart Castle
  • Culloden Battlefield
  • Distilleries

aberdeen

As we mentioned above, "in where to stay," Aberdeen is much more of a modern city than the rest on this itinerary, and while there isn't a ton to do in the city itself, the sites surrounding it are wonderful to see.


Exploring Aberdeen: If you do end up staying in Aberdeen, then it is worth strolling around the city for a bit. Head to Union Street to see the heart of the city and here you will find shopping, some fun bars & restaurants, and St. Nicholas Churchyard. You can also visit Old Aberdeen, slightly outside of the city center, to see the historic buildings, some of which are still in use today and many of which make up the college campus for the University of Aberdeen. Lastly, head out to the beach and harbor area where you can stroll along the coast and possibly spot a dolphin or two.  


Surrounding Castles: There are 2 spectacular castles within an hour's drive of Aberdeen. The first being Balmoral Castle to the west. This stunning castle, complete with it's own pyramid, was a gift to Queen Victoria from her husband Prince Albert back in 1848 and the castle is still used by the Royal Family to this day. Because of this, the castle is closed to visitors at certain times throughout the year so be sure to check availability prior to visiting. Tickets are £17.50 and you can purchase them online. The next castle, and our personal favorite from the trip, is Dunnottar Castle, located just outside of Stonehaven, to the South of Aberdeen. This castle, pictured above, is what remains of the fortress that was once home to the Earl Marischal and played a role in the Jacobite uprisings. You are able to wander through the various ruins on a self-guided tour with placards providing history on each space. If you are lucky, you might even be able to see dolphins off in the distance. You can purchase your tickets from the stand inside the castle for £10.50 (credit card only).


Distilleries: About an hour outside of Aberdeen, you will find yourself in Dufftown, in the heart of Speyside. Here you will find about as many distilleries as you would wineries in Napa Valley. As you drive along the winding roads, you will see small villages and usually a distillery around every turn. Many offer tastings or tours, so it is a great place to find your new favorite whisky. Just make sure to have a designated driver, as the pours are heavy and the whisky is strong.     

Must see sites

  • Dunnottar Castle
  • Balmoral Castle
  • Aberdeen Beach
  • Distilleries


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