berat
Day 1: Berat
Welcome to Albania, a country not many are familiar with, but one that completely stole our hearts! The people are warm and welcoming, the food is delicious, and the scenery is beautiful, what more could you ask for?
You will most likely be flying into Tirana Airport and in order to make the most of your time in Albania, we would suggest renting a car. Before you panic, yes, there are some crazy stories out there about the road conditions and the drivers, and it is good to be prepared, but we found it relatively easy to get around. There are many police officers stationed along the major highways preventing people from driving too crazy, and while there are some roads that are dirt or have major potholes, as long as you pay attention and go the speed limit, you should have no issues on the roads for this itinerary. After picking up your car at the airport you will drive the 1.5 hours to Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and not to be missed while in Albania (Make sure to take the route that leads you through Durrës to avoid rougher roads).
Berat consists of 2 neighborhoods, Mangalem, the Muslim side, and Gorica, the Christian side, but both are comprised of the white buildings stacked up along the hills that make it so famous.
If you arrive before 5pm, we suggest checking out the Berat Castle and the Church of the Holy Trinity on the first day, otherwise you can see it in the morning on your way out of town. Other than that, take a stroll around town and explore both sides by crossing the Gorica Bridge. For dinner we highly recommend Lili Home-Made Food where you will be greeted by Lili himself and get to enjoy his delicious family recipes. Try to make reservations in advance as they are often too full to accommodate walk-ins (your hotel should be able to help you with this if you are unable to make them online). It is also a bit of a climb up the stairs so be prepared for that. If you are unable to snag a reservation, Restaurant Wildor also serves up delicious local fair. Try anything with rabbit, as that is a local delicacy.
must see sites
- Mangalem Neighborhood
- Gorica Neighborhood
- Berat Castle
- Church of the Holy Trinity
- Gorica Bridge
- Cobo Winery (Outside of Berat on the way to Dhermi)
dhermi
Day 2: Head From Berat To Dhermi
Now that you have a cultural town under your belt, it is time to head to the coast for some rest and relaxation. The Albanian coast is definitely an underrated paradise, with crystal clear blue water and plenty of places to relax on the beach. You can easily spend a few days here just soaking up the sun.
With just a 2.5 hour drive from Berat to Dhermi, you will have plenty of time to see the castle and Church in Berat if you were unable to do so the day before. But more importantly, there is also plenty of time to make a pit stop at Cobo Winery on your way. It is a lovely family owned and operated winery where you can experience Albanian Varietals such as Shesh I Bardhe and Kallmet. You can also choose to do the wine pairing with a cheese board to make lunch out of your visit. Make reservations ahead of time if you wish to do a tasting, they were able to accommodate us dropping in, but it is not guaranteed.
When choosing a place to stay in Dhermi, there are a few things to be aware of: The town is full of hills so if you don't feel like hiking from the beach back to your hotel, pick something right on the water. Dhermi Beach is where many of the hotels, restaurants, bars, and clubs are located so if you want to enjoy a lively environment, that is the best place to stay. If you are looking for something more quiet, you can choose a hotel along Drymades Beach. Also check before you book to make sure that beach chairs are included with your stay so that you don't have to pay extra.
Day 3-4: Dhermi (Or Day Trip to Himare)
The next two days are all about relaxing the way you want to. We opted to spend both days beach side in Dhermi and exploring old town. We enjoyed fresh seafood at the beachside Royal Blue Restaurant, smoked shisha (Hookah) at Bamboo Beach bar and then at night, just strolled through the different beach bar areas. Some had bonfires, DJs, movies playing, etc so there was no shortage of entertainment.
Old Town was one of the most memorable traveling experiences we have had. Albanians are known for their hospitality and it is not uncommon for restaurant staff or locals to sit down with you for a conversation, to share a meal, or give you tips on what to see and do. But sometimes they even go a step further... while not as common in the major cities, in places like old town Dhermi, the tradition of hospitality still exists and by this we mean that if anyone knocks on a door, the resident will be all to happy to invite them in to enjoy a cup of coffee, some homemade Rakia, or even a meal. We were fortunate enough to meet a local at the beach who explained this to us and offered to show us.
So, one morning, we made the 30 minute hike up to old town, first to see the church and view at the top of the hill but also to experience this hospitality tradition. We knocked on a random door (one that we picked out, not the local) and were greeted by the sweetest elderly woman who quickly invited us in and offered us some Rakia.... at 9am. We then sat with her for the next hour and she told us about her family, offered life advice, and treated us like she had known us for years. It was such a special experience that I encourage everyone to try, but I do recommend finding a local that speaks English to take you because we did need a translator.
The town of Himare is also a short 20 minute drive from Dhermi. Here you can explore an additional old town and castle if you would like to see more of the coast and experience a more laid back town.
Day 5: Return to Tirana
Today you will want to get an early start to make the 3 hour drive back to Tirana. We opted to drop our car off at the airport that day to avoid driving and parking in the city. From there you can either take a shuttle that leaves every hour and costs about €5 or you can take a taxi for about €20.
must see sites
- Dhermi Beach
- Any of the beach bars
- Old Town
- Church of St. Mary
- Himare day trip
tirana
Day 5: Tirana
Before we get started on Tirana, we would like to say that we wished we had at least one more day in this beautiful city. If you can add an additional night to your trip, we would highly recommend that. Otherwise, we would suggest stopping in Berat on your way to Dhermi and not staying the night to allow for 2 nights in Tirana.
The Capital of Albania is large, busy, but amazing to explore. There are different neighborhoods to experience, with unique vibes, food markets, museums, a great nightlife, and once again, very friendly locals. We arrived back into the city around 2pm and hit the ground running. First stop was Skanderbeg Square where you can tackle almost all of the major landmarks in one spot. Here you will find the clock tower, Et'hem Bey Mosque, and the Orthodox Church. From there it is a few short blocks to the New Bazaar where you will find local crafts and different food stalls, perfect for lunch.
Next stop was Bunk'art 2, located back in Skanderbeg Square. This museum, located in an old military bunker, gives you an inside look into the communist regime, working camps, officers, and victims from 1912-1991. This is the smaller of the two museums but it is located in the city center so better if you are on a time constraint (Bunk'art 1 is about 20 minutes outside of the city center and can be reached by bus or taxi). Entry to the museums is 500 LEK or less than $5, so definitely worth it to learn more about the history of the city and country.
The last stop to make is the Pyramid of Tirana, an old museum that is now a conference center, but a major piece of architecture for the city. Unfortunately it was under construction when we were there, but it was good to walk past and take a look. Then, for the rest of the night, you can return to the Blloku Neighborhood to enjoy all that bars and restaurants that the area has to offer!
must see sites
- Skanderbeg Square
- Et'hem Bey Mosque
- Orthodox Church
- New Bazaar
- Bunk'art 1 and/or 2
- Pyramid of Tirana
- Blloku Neighborhood