mostar
Arrival
If you are like us, then Bosnia & Herzegovina (BiH) is part of a longer trip through the Balkans, meaning there are a few ways to arrive in Mostar. For us, we were coming from Montenegro and arrived by bus with a 4 hour pit stop in Dubrovnik, Croatia for lunch! Bus Croatia is a convenient company to use to get around and the ride from Dubrovnik to Mostar took about 3.5 hours and cost 22 Euros. We arrived at the main bus station in Mostar and then it was a quick 5-10 minute taxi ride to our hotel in Mostar Old Town.
Other options for arriving is to fly into Mostar International Airport (a 15 minute taxi ride to Old Town) or if you arriving from Sarajevo you can choose between a 2 hour train ride which leaves 2 times per day for 5-8 Euros or a 2.5 hour bus ride for about 20 Euros.
Old Town:
Mostar is a beautiful little city located on the Neretva River, and is probably most recognizable by the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Stari Most Bridge, that the city is named after. Due to it's smaller size, you can easily explore the old town area in one day with plenty of time to enjoy the sites and food. Start off by strolling through Old Town, where you will find the bazaar that lines the main road through town on both sides of the Stari Most Bridge, and Pasha's Mosque at the end of the road on the east side of the bridge.
Bridge Jumpers:
A must see in Mostar are the famous bridge jumpers off the Stari Most Bridge. These professional jumpers will start enticing crowds by walking on top of the bridge and teasing a jump. At this time, they will begin mingling through the crowd asking for tips and when they feel they have earned enough to take the plunge, one of them will complete the nearly 80ft drop into the river below. This happens multiple times per day so just look for the crowds building up. If you are brave enough, feel free to ask the professionals if they will train you, as they do allow tourists to attempt the jump if they can prove their skills on a lower platform down river... we were not brave enough to take on the challenge but very much enjoyed watching the spectacle.
Coffee & Food:
As for breaks during the day, we highly recommend stopping at Cafe de Alma to experience and learn the art of authentic Bosnian coffee. It is a cozy environment with no WIFI, to encourage visitors to chat amongst themselves, and the coffee is delicious! Another great spot is the Craft Beer Garden #imaimoze, where you can taste local beers and see the Crooked Bridge on your walk over there. As for food, do not leave Mostar without stopping at National Restaurant Cevabdzinica Tima Irma! This was by far one of the best and most authentic meals we had while traveling around the Balkans. The staff is very friendly and the portions are huge, so you could easily share one of the platters between 2 people!
To end the day, there are a few bars/restaurants that line the river, offer shisha, or if you are looking to get a little crazy, make your way up to Ali Baba Cave Disco!
must see sites
- Stari Most Bridge
- Bridge Jumpers
- Old Town
- Pasha's Mosque
sarajevo
Arrival: Travel from Mostar to Sarajevo
The two best ways to get from Mostar to Sarajevo are by train or by bus. The train leaves at either 6:30am or 5:00pm each day, takes just shy of 2 hours, goes from old town Mostar to downtown Sarajevo and costs 5-10 Euro. The bus leaves about every 2 hours, goes from the main bus station in Mostar (5 min outside of Old Town) and arrives in downtown Sarajevo, takes about 2.5 hours and costs 10-15 Euro (purchase tickets here).
If you arrive via the airport, you can get to the city center by taking a 15 minute taxi ride for about 15 Euros or a 30 minute bus ride for $3-$5.
Stari Grad (Old Town):
Sarajevo is a city full of history, from the starting place of WWI, to the 1984 Olympics, to a war torn city during the Yugoslavia conflict during the 90's. Pair that with a bustling energy and great food, there is plenty to do to keep you occupied for a few days. With there being so much history involved in Sarajevo, we recommend that you do a free walking tour (you can find some good options here). The tour was 2 hours and was a great way to see many of the must see sites, such as the Sacred Heart Cathedral, City Hall, Old Town, a war rose, Sebilj Fountain, The Line Where East Meets West, and Gazi Husrev Bey's Mosque all while hearing the history of the city. Walking tours are free but are tip based so don't forget to bring some Euros with you.
Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide 1992-1995:
One thing that came highly recommended by our walking tour guide was the Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide 1992-1995. This museum is an excellent experience and provides so much information regarding the war that took place in the 90's, all for less than 10 Euros. When you travel through multiple countries in the Balkans, you get very different versions of what happened during the war based on which country you are in, so seeing the artifacts and learning more about what took place in Bosnia provides more clarification. Plan on spending at least an hour or 2 to see what this beautiful city had to endure roughly 30 years ago.
1984 Olympics Bobsled Track:
If you cross the bridge next to City Hall heading away from Old Town, you will walk through a neighborhood leading up a hill (there are signs marking your walk). After you pass the houses, you will come to the cable cars that will take you the rest of the way to the top. A round trip ticket will cost about 10 Euro and are pet friendly (they also allow bikes for an extra fee if you wish to ride back down the mountain). It is possible to hike to the top, but it will take 1.5-2 hours to get there and is relatively difficult. Once at the top, you can walk around on the remains of the bobsled course, now covered by local artist graffiti.
must see sites
- Stari Grad (Old Town)
- The line where East meets West
- Sacred Heart Cathedral
- City Hall
- A War Rose
- Sebilj Fountain
- Gazi Husrev Bey's Mosque
- Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide 1992-1995
- The Eternal Flame
- Zelenih Beretki Street (Nightlife)
- 1984 Olympics Bobsled Track